Supermarkets tend to come in one of 3 flavors: purely useful, attractively middle-class and overblown bougie. But Marukai, the SoCal chain that provides a blast of Japan inside a shopping cart, stands in a category of its very own. within the nineties After i lived to the Westside, I frequented the Ralphs on Wilshire at Bundy; the nearby Vons and